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Hardly a fusillade-o-sucrose here, but rather a delicate sweetness. You should sneak in a bottle next time you go for dim-sum. I will! You feel flowers spring up on your palate. Lots of cantaloupe, and paradoxically it seems even more refreshing than the dry N.V. I mean, the fizz is delicious. Foie terrines yes we all know, but I rather envision this for unagi, for pan-Asian preps involving mango and other exotic fruits, for salads with lots of fruit and salt, maybe cantaloupe and lardons even slaw.

This is the same wine as the basic NV but disgorged earlier, 12/09, and it’s still immensely attractive and useful, and the finish coats the palate with wisteria and grape-hyacinth. This is the same cuvée as the Brut N.V. only with 32 g.l. RS, rather like a Nahe Spätlese; wisteria and plum-blossom; head-turning pretty and fine-boned; in many ways this is a perfect fusion-cuisine wine, but h…