Lagrein is one of those varieties that feels almost tailor-made for adventurous Australian drinkers who want something a bit outside the mainstream. Originally from the cool, mountainous Alto Adige in northern Italy, Lagrein is a grape that’s been making serious waves here, especially in regions like Murray Darling, Barossa Valley, Langhorne Creek, Riverland, and even the Limestone Coast.

What sets Lagrein apart? In the glass, it’s inky, deep violet, almost black, pouring out bold aromas of sour plum, black cherry, blackberry and dark chocolate, often with a whiff of grass, tobacco, warm earth and even a flicker of eucalyptus or mint if grown Aussie-style. There’s plenty of fruit, a cascade of blackberries, juicy blood plums, and purple cherries but it never goes jammy. Instead, you get a pulse of high acidity, firm tannins and a robust backbone that keeps everything bright and structured, not heavy or sticky.

It can be quite a wild child when young, thanks to all those chewy tannins, so many Lagreins spend a good chunk of time mellowing out in oak or bottle before being unleashed. Winemakers in Australia have learned to manage its vigour and tannin, either by letting it linger in barrel or softening it up before fermentation giving the finished wine a velvety, silky feel once it’s ready to drink. You’ll also find beautifully savoury notes including spice, tobacco, a touch of bitter chocolate, sometimes a hint of liquorice or even floral edges.

There’s also a lighter, rosé (Rosato or Kretzer) style which is dry, bright, and showing off Lagrein’s expressive red fruit and floral side, which is a nod to its alpine roots but works an absolute treat in our climate.

Food-wise, Lagrein cries out for hearty fare. Italian heritage means it pairs brilliantly with osso bucco, carbonara or a rich steak with anchovy butter. It’s a winner alongside sharp cheeses and easily stands up to smoky, charred meats, lamb shanks, venison stews or even a plate of spicy chorizo risotto if you’re feeling game.