Topaque is one of Australia’s most characterful fortifieds, and there’s nowhere that does it justice quite like Rutherglen. While it was once known as Tokay, the name was changed to stop confusion with Hungary’s Tokaji. What matters is that it’s always made from the humble Muscadelle grape, and the results are pure gold (sometimes literally, thanks to those glowing amber hues).

This is a fortified wine with unmistakable personality: honey, toffee, candied citrus, cold-tea leaf and sometimes a subtle hit of malt or roasted nuts. It generally lands lighter and a bit more elegant than Rutherglen Muscat, less of that turbo-charged density, more finesse and silk on the palate but still plenty of flavour. The finish is long, with a sweetness that feels generous but never cloying. Topaque can show off tangy orange peel, butterscotch, quince, even a gentle floral or grassy note, depending on the age and how long it’s been left to concentrate and transform in barrel.

Winemakers in Rutherglen let the Muscadelle hang out late on the vine, picking when the sugars are super-ripe before gently crushing, briefly fermenting, and then fortifying to preserve that natural sweetness. Ageing is usually in old oak, sometimes through solera systems that build layer upon layer of richness, complexity and those prized rancio characters—think nutty oxidative notes and deep, seamless integration of flavours.