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This outstanding, bottle aged wine was recently sourced direct from the cellars of Pazos de Lusco. It derived from a parcel of the oldest vines in the Pazo Piñeiro, a renowned 5ha, southeast-facing vineyard in the Salvaterra do Miño subdistrict of Condado do Tea.

Most of the Albariño vines here were planted in 1970 and the site is unusual for Rías Baixas, in that it is a continuous slope. The soils are strewn with sebrego, the small granitic pebbles of the region, and there is very little top soil. The wine was fermented in steel before a portion was matured in large, old oak casks on its lees, and bottled without fining or filtration.

It is a wine of fabulous energy and savoury complexity. Think of a cross between a mature white Burgundy and a fine Riesling. There’s a pulpy texture with ripe, vibrant stone fruit notes of nectarine, white peach and ripe citrus with complexities of kernels, nuts, and spicy developments. The finish is racy and full of energy. It is one of those truly rare things; a mature European white that is just in perfect condition and that you simply can’t stop drinking.

The 2005 Pazo Pineiro de Lusco Albarino is a selection of grapes from the oldest and steepest section of the vineyard to provide superior terroir character. In addition, the wine is fermented with indigenous yeasts and bottled after 12 month contact with the lees. Exhibiting a deeper color as well as a more expressive nose (particularly minerals), this layered and concentrated wine has superior depth and richness and a texture not unlike a Condrieu from a top vintage. It would pair well with lobster thermidor or aromatic cheeses. 92 points, The Wine Advocate Light yellow.

Intensely perfumed nose displays an impressive bouquet of orchard and pit fruits, melon, white flowers and subtly smoky lees. Taut, citrus-accented pear and white peach flavors boast excellent clarity and thrust. A lively mineral kick adds further energy to the powerful yellow fruit finishing flavors.