This wine grows in one of Mâcon’s very best sites. Les Quarts is sectioned into four lieux-dits (or historical place names): Haut, Bas, Le Clocheton and Les Quarts Touches. This is a blend of those parcels which do not make it into La Soufrandière’s Les Quarts cuvée. The vines, aged 35 to 50 years old, are a touch younger than those for the Les Quarts bottling, and this also includes a small parcel of Au Bourgeois just in front of Les Bouchardières.

Planted at 230 metres on classic Bajocian clay and Jurassic limestone, this beautiful slope has been certified biodynamic since 2006. The 2022 was vinified mainly in old barriques. The domaine uses no new oak, by the way, with the barrels in the cellar having an average age of 10 to 12 years. Along with ex-Leflaive and Lafon barrels, the Bret brothers also bought used 300-litre casks from Olivier Lamy.

This wine has always been touching 1er Cru quality, so it’s no surprise that Jean-Phillipe believes Les Quarts will likely become a certified 1er Cru from the 2024 vintage (even if this cuvée will not be labelled 1er Cru). Expect drive, satiny depth and length of flavour with beautiful, tonic freshness running throughout.