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The 2021 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots is superb, unwinding in the glass with aromas of orange zest, white flowers, fresh mint, buttery pastry and clam liquor, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and satiny palate with a sweet core of fruit, a bright spine of tangy acidity and a long, orange oil-inflected finish.

The 2020 vintage marked the first year of official organic conversion for 78-hectare Domaine William Fèvre, though it’s actually the 15th year the estate has been practicing organic, so the team took the challenges of the 2021 vintage in their stride. When I asked Didier Séguier how he managed to farm such a large estate this way, when so many smaller producers balk at the challenge, he explained that part of the secret has been fully engaging the Fèvre team: everyone is trained to spot signs of mildew and disease and share them on a team WhatsApp group; there are even prizes for the most vigilant employees.

The approach certainly seems to have paid off in 2021, in any case, delivering wines with an old-school aesthetic but contemporary precision and charm; and the fact that they are bottled under Diam means that their gracious evolution in the cellar is assured. While the 2021s can’t quite match the sheer concentration and intensity of 2019 and 2020, their classical profiles and clear differentiation by site will delight Chablis purists.