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This is the fourth release of this unique white, drawn from a windswept vineyard in Monforte d’Alba. Planted in 2014 to three clones of Riesling, this particular plot is very rocky and limestone-rich and sits at the apex of the hill at 450-500 metres altitude, just outside the Barolo appellation boundary. 

Following a few years experimenting with amphora and various types and sizes of oak, the 2020 was fermented and raised exclusively in a 5,000-litre cement tank, on lees, for nine months. The use of concrete is hardly commonplace when vinifying Riesling, yet Massolino feels the brightness and energy of the wine merits this approach. The wine was bottled with an imperceptible five grams per litre residual to balance the high acidity of both the vintage and the site. 

Massolino’s Moscato has long been a benchmark example of the style, but it’s only produced in tiny quantities. Drawn from hand-harvested grapes, a good portion of the vines are rooted in the prime calcareous soils of Serralunga. Massolino’s Moscato is more savoury and complex (yet every bit as delicious) than the more typical examples.

As always, this is bursting with wonderful, complex fruit: chamomile, pear, citrus and acacia flower but it finishes chalky, crisp and with a twist of sage leaf. Impossible to stop drinking!