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Coming from such chalky soils, La Croix Boissée’s trademark is aromatic intensity and vibrant freshness, combined with a deep charge of mineral-edged fruit. Considering the review and the number of bottles we have available, we shouldn’t need to rave. Although still a baby, the 2019 is shaping up to become a smokin’ Loire rouge.

“The colour is a gorgeous black violet hue, and the nose is filled with aromatic black and curranty fruits, with hints of liquorice and rose garden. Trying to look past the residual gas on the palate (easier said than done) this feels fresh and vigorous, with a silky composition, and notes of liquorice, toast, currant and white chalk. A brilliant wine.” 96 points, Chris Kissack, The Wine Doctor

Organic. The domaine’s top cuvée hails from a parcel of 30- to 50-year-old vines on very chalky, white limestone soils above Baudry’s cellars in Cravant-les-Côteaux.

Here, the south-facing aspect, altitude and soil produce Chinon’s longest-living and most elegant wines. It’s a site that Baudry believes suits Burgundian-style élevage (although the wine sees no new oak).

So, natural yeast fermentation in open wooden casks is followed by 24 months maturation in old Burgundian pieces and a further nine months in cement. Again, the wine is bottled without filtration.