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Sweet. Thanks to its association with Bordeaux, Muscadelle is the most recognizable of Plageoles’ five sweet styles. This one comes from a 40 to 60-year-old parcel of vines grown on schist and clay. It’s cropped at a very low 15hL/ha and finishes with around 200 grams of residual per litre. For the most part, the fruit is dried on the vine (passerillage), although in some years a proportion of botrytis plays a part. The wine is then vinified and aged in old oak demi-muids and finishes with around 200g/L residual.

The 2018 release is awash with pillowy apricot and exotic floral aromas and flavours balanced by ripe, citrusy freshness. Back in the day, the Bordeaux establishment strangled the trade in Gaillac sweet wines firstly, by blending it with their own wines and later, by taxing the bejesus out of it before it went through their port. Revenge is a wine best served cold, preferably with a slice of lemon tart or a wedge of cheese.