Murdoch Hill Syrah 2021 (6 Bottles), Adelaide Hills

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In some circles, Michael Downer’s ‘Murdoch Hill’ label does not have the crafty kudos of the Artisan Series, yet the wines are made with the same care and attention and in a broadly similar mould. This bottling hails from estate-grown fruit from an east-facing block planted in 1998 (where organic practices are employed). The fruit was fermented wild in open-top fermenters with a 15% whole-bunch inclusion lending an impressive aromatic lift. Maturation took place mainly in old barriques with a small portion (15%) in new—Michael Downer is seeking complexity from fruit rather than oak.

“This strikingly herbal Adelaide Hills syrah is the opposite of what the world associates with Australian wine. Think fresh rosemary and thyme, plus some dried sage. Medium-bodied and very crisp for an Australian red, but the tannins are gentle and fit the lively acidity very neatly. Refreshing, but not tart, finish. Drink now. Screw cap.” 91 points, Nick Stock,