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There’s a core of fleshy, tangy citrus and orchard fruit, complemented by subtle blossom, smoky mineral and roasted herb notes. This is a superb white that fans out across the palate taking on deeper and more complex savoury notes with each sip. Saline acidity and tensile energy drive to a long finish. Our best advice is to try not to serve this too cold and if possible serve it in a big glass.

This 100% Godello comes from 11 parcels of old vines rooted in the slate slopes of Portela. These parcels, or ‘pezas’, form part of the Gayoso family’s original holdings and all were planted by José Ramón Gayoso’s sons in the early 1900s using massale selection cuttings from the Pedrouzos vineyard.

All these vineyard parcels overlook the River Sil at an average altitude of 500 metres. The juice saw around 12 hours of skin contact before natural fermentation in a variety of oak vessels, predominantly 600-litre (third or fourth use) and 2,000-litre vats.