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François Chidaine is revered for his pristine Chenin Blancs from Montlouis and Vouvray. For a fraction of the price of those wines, here is a touch of Chidaine magic in the form of a Sauvignon cropped from vines in Chissay-en-Touraine and Saint-Julien-de-Chédon, less than 10km from Montlouis. The viticulture here is strictly organic and biodynamic and the fruit was naturally fermented with a high degree of solids before maturation on lees until bottling.

As always with Chidaine, you get terroir first and varietal second. It’s a pure, delicious, layered and pulpy Sauvignon, bringing stone fruits and gentle spice rather than any of the stereotypical characters we often associate with the variety. The depth of flavour is impressive, as is the bright, driven finish. A bargain.