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Screwcap. Drawn north by a spate of tiny vintages in Eisenburg, Schiefer has been active in the Leithaberg region, north Burgenland, since 2012. In the village of Purbach he works with both Blaufränkisch and Grüner Veltliner.

Rooted in sandy-loam, slate and Leithakalk (the local limestone), the vineyards here are a touch warmer and soils a touch deeper (with less iron) allowing Schiefer to craft more accessible reds than those from his Eisenberg stronghold, while the Leithakalk brings acidity and freshness to both the whites and reds. This small batch white is drawn from 0.85-hectares of vines averaging 35-40 years old. Made with the merest sulphur addition at bottling and bottled without filtration, this Grüner is carbonically fermented, naturally, as whole bunches for a week before being pressed to used 600-litre format old oak to finish its fermentation.

The result is a deliciously funky, forget-everything-you-know-about-Grüner, kind of Grüner Veltliner–an explosion of citrus, star fruit, quince, white florals, nettle and white currant with a nip of tart, pear skin tannin to close. Super complex it is nonetheless: a really fine and delicate, mineral and nuanced example of Grüner. And with only 11% alcohol, this is a million miles away from the Wachau style!