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The vineyard of Kiedrich Gräfenberg—or ‘hill of the counts’—has been used to designate Robert Weil’s finest wines since the site was officially classified Weinlage 1 Klasse in 1867. Home to Weil’s oldest vines (up to 80 years of age), with the majority on their own rootstock, it makes perfect sense that Wilhelm Weil decided that it was only from this site that his Grosses Gewächs would derive (even though he could release three GGs from his single vineyards).

Despite the high quality of the Turmberg and Klosterberg, this is clearly on another level. It’s finer, even more complete and subtly powerful—a wine of obvious Grand Cru class. This year, the GG was raised for 10 months (instead of 12) on lees in large, neutral oak Doppelstückfässer (large Stockinger casks). When you think of what we are paying now for top-notch Grand Cru white Burgundy wines, Weil’s remains an absolute bargain, matching the best of them for class and quality. Few (if any!) could match it for longevity.

“Deep and ripe nose with fine apricot, mango and papaya aromas. Stunning concentration, the ripeness and creaminess married to a wonderful mineral freshness that keeps this compact wine moving steadily over the palate. Giant, yet very precise finish. Great aging potential.” 97 points, Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com

“Picked in several passages over five days like the premier crus, the 2022 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Trocken GG opens with a noble, very fine and elegant yet, most of all, intense and complete (or complex) bouquet of ripe, yellow-colored fruits, iodine and the features of a richer, less stony yet mineral-rich terroir. Full-bodied and of polished elegance on the palate, this is a rich, utterly complex and balanced, densely textured and saline-finishing Gräfenberg with lots of (well-dosed) power, grip and tension. This is an impressive wine and one of the Rheingau highlights (at least). enormously saline and vital also in the aftertaste, this is a Riesling symphony.” 96 points, Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

“The 2022 Riesling Kiedricher Gräfenberg Grosses Gewächs has a notion of tangerine alongside yellow plum, followed by yellow plum skin and citrus peel. The palate is juicy, almost bouncy, with Reine Claude’s vividness, pervaded by zesty, ripe lemon resting on a gentle layer of yeast. It’s concentrated, almost allowing glimpses of more distant, tropical fruit, yet all within that frame of citric freshness. It shows tautness, linearity, direction and energy with Weil’s drive, yet it is always cool and dynamic. We only see a fraction of this power at this point, but it is undoubtedly there. Subtle citrus perfume denotes elegance, but the muscular elegance gets you. Wow.” 96 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous