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Biodynamic. This superb value wine was previously known simply as the Côtes du Rhône cuvée. It is now named Les P’tit Gars (‘the little mates’), a term the brothers Frédéric and François Alary were referred to around the town of Cairanne when they were boys. It’s crafted from mature vine Grenache (60%) and Syrah (20%) with the remainder made up of Mourvèdre, Counoise, Cinsault, Vaccarèse, Muscardin and Terret Noir (the latter from the domaine’s new plantings).

Notwithstanding the younger vines, it’s essentially an old-vine version of the Domaine’s entry-level Côtes du Rhône (P’tit Martin) with correspondingly greater depth, structure and savouriness. There was no small wood involved in the aging and the wine was bottled without fining or filtration.

More expressive on the nose than the Martin, this is also bright but a less spice-driven wine, with ferrous notes and red clay along with a very generous red fruit profile. There is serious intensity here, with structure, depth and concentration in spades. The tannin profile is assertive but not domineering and contributes balance to the fruit weight. The vibrancy is undeniable.