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Screwcap. This is the second release of Mark Matthews’ Grüner Veltliner. With one eye on Australia’s shifting culinary trends (away from animal protein) and the other on the marginal nature of his site, Matthew decided to produce a lower-alcohol, savoury white from Austria’s signature grape variety. The vineyard–organic from inception and surrounded on three sides by a small forest planted by Mark Matthews many moons ago (with a little help from the Bibendum team!)–has three clones of Grüner covering just over three acres.

The crop was wild-fermented and raised mainly in stainless steel, with one neutral barrel in the mix to add breadth and complexity. It’s a striking, savoury dry white with intense white pepper and green plum aromas and flavours, along with something exotic akin to guava or even rosewater. It’s got texture but it’s overall very racy, with a sappy, cool close.