Domaine Pierre Gaillard Saint-Joseph Rouge 2021 (12 Bottles) Condrieu, France

Gaillard’s Saint-Joseph is drawn from several parcels in the high country of Malleval, Chavanay and Limony in the far north of the appellation. The vines lie closer to Vienne and Condrieu than to Tournon-sur-Rhône in the south. Gaillard’s steep, cool soils have plenty of granite, which contributes to the mineral cut of this perfumed and vibrant Syrah.

At the same time, varying altitudes and aspects offer Gaillard various blending options and are key to the impressive consistency of this wine.

As usual, each parcel was destemmed and vinified separately. Aging was mostly in used Allier and Nevers barrels for 18 months, and the wine was bottled unfiltered. This is an immediately engaging, sleek, detailed and fragrant St-Jo with an array of red and blue fruits, exotic spices, and a lick of 2021’s roasted herb flavour.

While it’s the kind of crunchy-textured throwback vintage that screams ‘Don’t wait’, it has everything in place to suggest it will get better and better over the next five-plus years. But then again, why wait?!