Domaine Laroque d’Antan IGP Côtes du Lot Néphèle Blanc 2021 (12 Bottles) Cote du Lot, France

Described by its growers as tasting like “crystalline limestone soaked in sunshine”, this astounding white is a blend of Sauvignons Blanc and Gris, Mauzac and Verdanel. The two Sauvignons account for three-quarters of the blend (the cuttings were sourced from the great limestone and flint vineyards of Dagueneau, Cotat and Vacheron in the upper Loire). The white portion of the vineyard is two hectares on the upper slope, where the fractured Kimmeridgian is covered by just 20cm of workable topsoil before the vine roots tap into the rock below. In traditional field blend style, all the grapes were whole-bunch pressed and co-fermented, which can take up to three months as the wild yeasts do their work. Emmanuel Bourguignon used a mix of mature barrels (70%) and stainless steel for fermentation. Aging was for 10 months in used barrels sourced from Domaine Jacques Selosse.

When faced with a glass of wine as original as this, it’s natural to search for a comparison. In this case, our pursuit goes unrequited. This is a wine of contrasts, with the pungency of ripe orchard fruits countered by saline freshness; honey blossom sings of spring, while earthy notes point to autumn. Treble and bass. The mouthfeel is layered and complex, with pinpoint acidity leavening an otherwise dense core of flavour. With so much rocky presence, length and captivating personality, this is quite a leap from the already enchanting 2017. Although it was a challenge not to polish off the bottle, it looked even finer on day two.