Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully 1er Cru Blanc Rabourcé 2023 (12 Bottles) Rully, Burgundy, France

Diam. Rabourcé has traditionally been nicknamed ‘the Montrachet of Rully’ for the richness and power it delivers. It is a very steep site west of the village, above the highly regarded Cloux vineyard and just below the woods.

The soils are mainly composed of white, limestone-rich clay. The Defaix vines are now between 40 and 45 years old. Rabourcé is always one of Rully’s first vineyards to ripen, and Defaix’s 2022 is a superb example—a wine of impressive depth and power. It fermented with indigenous yeasts and was raised in used oak barrels. Expect waves of fleshy, mouthcoating stone fruit and kernel notes with excellent intensity, culminating in a long, balanced, refreshing close.

“Sweet Spot. A subtle but not imperceptible application of wood sets off the cool and airy blend of white orchard fruit, citrus confit and a hint of crushed anise. There is again fine concentration to the delicious and vibrant medium-bodied flavors that also flash good underlying tension that carries over to the nicely dry and equally persistent finish.” 90-93 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound

“Slightly the highest alcohol but still no more than 13.3%. Pretty lemon and lime colour. The fruit has a tiny bit more ripeness than Cloux, less exotic than Montpalais. Again the balance is excellent with a really pleasing sensuality to it. On the softer side rather than mineral, but appetising nonetheless. Light youthful bitters at the very back, a complex Rully with some ageing potential.” 89-91 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy