Valenciso Rioja Blanco 2023 (6 Bottles) Rioja, Spain

This fleshy, classy white is crafted from 100-plus-year-old vines of Viura (70%) and Garnacha Blanca (30%). It is sourced from four ancient, low-yielding highland vineyards around Rodezno, Haro and Villalba. After a wild ferment, the wine was aged on lees in Russian, steam-bent, untoasted oak barrels (a fine-grained Caucasian wood that allows for excellent balance between fruit and oak) for nine months.

The result is a super-aromatic wine with stone fruits, crushed citrus, mineral saline elements and a silky, fleshy and vibrant palate (racy, yet with good texture thanks to the low yields from the ancient vines). The full and slightly creamy mouthfeel is shot through by invigorating and balancing acidity and the lengthy finish is tinged with salty minerality. Since 2017, the wine has been presented in a Burgundy-shaped bottle, another indication of where its inspiration lies.