Jean-Baptiste Souillard Saint-Joseph 2022 Roussanne (6 Bottles) Rhone, France

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Souillard’s Roussanne is drawn from an intriguing, granite-based vineyard at Sanilhac, near the entrance to the beautiful Ardèche gorge. The east-facing vineyard—planted in the early 1970s and 2000s—sits on a steep hillside at 450 metres where the poor, stony grès (sandstone) soils are laced with granite. Souillard works with just 0.4 hectares from this “magic” site.

Altitude is key. Souillard’s Roussanne is his last variety to ripen and can be picked in October. It has moderate alcohol and good acidity. Following partial crushing, the juice ferments with indigenous yeast and the wine ages for 12 months in older oak barrels. A touch of maceration and gentle press cycle draw out a more food-friendly grip than is common this far south.

“This is delicious. It’s got a little bit of a forward, golden colour to its look but the flavours are all en pointe, lemony, green apple, toasty and cinnamon, a touch of brine, lick of fino sherry, hazelnut and ginger going on. Sloshes around the palate nicely, a crispness to edges, some chalky pucker too. Energetic, but still medium weight, a good density of flavour and yet a rise and rise of freshness. All about drinking this.” 93 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front

“Fine yellow robe; this has a neat nose, an air of primrose and gentle offer of elderberry, some crisp tuning, discreet salting. The palate glides along on white fruits, light flowers such as jasmine, a tender curve on the finish. Light cooked lemon lies within, much restraint, so it’s extended rather than fat, is correct, with a little more expression to come. 13°.” Jonathan Livingstone-Learmonth, Drink Rhône