Jo Landron Brut Atmosphères NV (6 Bottles) Muscadet, France

Biodynamic. This Loire bubbles has enjoyed so much love among those who know the wine, and no wonder. It’s a hand-harvested, Estate-grown, biodynamic, naturally fermented, low-dosage fizz that shows up many conventional Champagnes for both quality and value. Topping off an impressive package is the marvellous label designed by legendary French illustrator, Michel Tolmer (of Mimi, Fifi and Glouglou fame).

Jo Landron is not a fan of using Muscadet’s Melon de Bourgogne for sparkling wine, preferring instead a blend of around 75% Folle Blanche (grown on sandy clay), with a balance of Pinot Noir (grown on gravelly soils). Vine age varies between 18 and 30 years. The yields are typically between 50 and 60 hl/ha–far lower than the average yields in Champagne. The base wines are fermented naturally and then go through a traditional second fermentation in bottle, where they remain for a minimum of 24 months. The dosage is a low five grams per litre (Extra Brut). On top of all this, the fruit for this cuvée is from a single vintage (2017 in this case).

This list of attributes sounds like the winegrowing and making approach of a top grower in Champagne, not a humble Muscadet producer! It’s no surprise then that the result is a wine of impressive depth and complexity. Expect a super-mineral, earthy, rocky wine with waves of racy citrus and fresh nectarine fruit and lots of flinty, talc-like, salty complexity, then a delicious lick of smoky Pinot breadiness to close. This is simply one of the finest sparkling bargains going around.

“As always this is officially non-vintage (although Jo tells me it is 2017) and is mostly Folle Blanche. It is made in the extra brut style using the méthode traditionnelle. Jo will add a little dosage at disgorgement during the first 24 months, but later disgorgements such as this one receive no such support. It has a fragrant floral nose, filled with chalk, orange and peach, in a ripe and expressive style. The palate maintains an even more exotic stance, with plush fruit, the wine’s broad texture here offset by an incisive mousse and punchy acidity. A lovely style.”

93 points, Chris Kissack, The Wine Doctor