Bodegas Pentecostés Rías Baixas Albariño 2022 (6 Bottles) Rias Biaxas, Spain

New. Drawn from the granite terraces of the Pazo de Barreiro within spitting distance of the Atlantic Ocean, this a wonderfully taut and mineral style of Albariño with mouth-watering acidity wrapped around a dense core of fleshy fruit. The winemaking for both Pentecostés wines is effectively the same.

The grapes are hand-harvested and stored overnight at 10 degrees, and slow fermentations take place at cellar temperature in stainless-steel tanks, with a small portion of the harvest fermented in French oak. The wines are then raised on lees, undisturbed, for six months.

Look forward to mouth-watering, chiselled texture, flavours of pulpy orchard fruit, citrus pith and sea spray all cusped by pithy drive and zappy energy. Oceanic Riesling, perhaps.

This heart-starting Albariño will age and build complexity as it goes, but it’s the kind of wine that will instantly wow alongside any seafood.

“At first, smooth with a kind of marbled creaminess flecked with fennel and liquorice. White flowers, bitter citrus peel, and so, so salty. I can smell and taste the North Atlantic sea in this wine. But also flowers – it smells like the heather and gorse on those Galician cliffs. Intensely salty on the finish. So taut it could snap the sky in half. It really tastes of its place.” Tamlyn Currin, Jancis Robinson com