Laughing Jack Jack’s Semillon 2021 (6 Bottles) Barossa Valley

Shawn Kalleske’s old-vine, wild fermented Semillon is sourced in equal measure from two sites: a Greenock vineyard planted in 1964; and the family’s Creek Block vineyard which was planted in 1994. The soils are red/brown earth over dark red clay with underlying bluestone and limestone.

For the 2021, the fruit was destemmed and spent a short time on skins before whole-berry pressing and fermentation in stainless steel tanks. It was kept on lees for four weeks post-fermentation before being bottled unfined. Expect a wine of freshness, zip and boundless energy. Touches of green-apple-grip and citrus weight add texture, and there’s a moreish and salivating close.

“Barossa Semillon has been getting some extra attention from me over the last little while, and why not? It’s a good style of wine, and somewhat under-sung. This sees no oak, and is sourced from grapes grown in Greenock. Lime, green pear, lemon verbena and lemongrass. It’s crunchy, tight and energetic, a light chalky texture, a pleasant quinine-like bitterness, and a crisp long finish of excellent length. Excellent expression of Barossa Sem, which should develop very nicely with further bottle age. Has something of an Italianate feel too, which I really like.” 93 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front