Cloudy straw-gold in the glass, releasing bruised apple, sourdough crust, quince and a whisper of white blossom. The palate crackles with fine, persistent bead, driving green apple skin, lemon curd, wet river stone and a savoury lees grip. Bone-dry finish, taut and mineral.

Meet the Lethbridge Methode Ancestrale 2023, a wild, low-intervention sparkler crafted by pioneering winemakers Ray Nadeson and Maree Collis in the cool, volcanic hills of Victoria’s Geelong region. Bottle-fermented from estate-grown Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this cult release captures the untamed spirit of Australian pet-nat at its finest.

Pour ice-cold at a long summer lunch beside freshly shucked oysters, salt-crusted snapper or a wedge of triple-cream brie. The 2023 Lethbridge Methode Ancestrale shines at sun-drenched celebrations, coastal picnics and considered dinner parties. Snap up a bottle of this small-batch natural sparkling wine before allocations vanish.