Empire of Dirt Ink Gamay 2021 from Geelong is a tiny‑production, single‑barrel Gamay that takes this emerging region’s old vines and turns them into a deeply savoury, edgy and captivating red for serious Gamay fiends. This 2021 Empire of Dirt Dirt Ink Gamay is handpicked, cold soaked, with around 25% whole bunch run through carbonic maceration before ageing in an old French hogshead, giving layers of spice, lift and texture without overt oak.

In the glass, expect a vibrant ruby core and aromatics that are more wild and brooding than simple and fruity – think rhubarb, cranberry, dried cherry, blood orange peel, dried tomato, cured meat, dried flowers and a subtle gamey, earthy note. The palate is medium‑bodied, sappy and slightly sour‑edged in the best way, with tangy red fruits, smoky spice and firm, chalky tannins that make this Ink Gamay 2021 feel more like a serious Burgundy than glou‑glou Beaujolais.

Empire of Dirt Ink Gamay 2021 is a cracking match with charcuterie, confit duck, lamb cutlets or a decent burger, where its savoury meatiness and acid line cut through richness superbly. It’s also brilliant alongside mushroom dishes, roast beetroot, grilled radicchio or hard cheeses, where the wine’s umami, blood and spice notes find plenty to latch on to at the table. This is a bottle to pour blind for Pinot lovers who think they’ve seen it all.