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Even in the Rhône, single varietal Roussanne is a rare bird. Jean-Baptiste Souillard, a young producer with an encyclopedic knowledge of the region, recently estimated there are only 10 or so producers who do not blend their Roussanne with Marsanne. Made entirely from Roussanne (and inspired by a tasting of Beaucastel’s Vieilles Vignes Châteauneuf early on in Gaillard’s career), this is one of those wines that make you question that logic.

The grapes were drawn from several low-yielding sites situated in the far north of the appellation: the relatively cool, granite plateau of Malleval at Les Dries; and its slopes at Chartres; and finally, from Les Vessettes in Chavanay. The wine spent eight months in used Allier and Nevers barrels sourced from growers in Chassagne and Pouilly-Fuissé.

Made for the dinner table, Gaillard’s wine is always pitched at the weightier end of the spectrum, though the 2021, at 13.5% abv, holds a striking and very fresh line of acidity not seen in the last few releases. It’s perfumed and pure, layered with apricot, candied orange, yellow flowers, blossom sweetness and spice. There’s a deliciously mouth-coating texture with ripe fruits and a rich kernel character. Weighted but balanced, with elegance and finesse, this is an excellent release.