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Every time we contemplate 2019 we end up in very similar territory: wines that are particularly expressive of their vineyard of origin and savory almost across the board. Remy 2019 – our single barrel of Gower – has aged gently from its seductive origins at vintage into an attractive balance between fine extraction and salinity. Appealingly ruby in colour with structure and exoticism. Dark cherries and Vietnamese spices, and perhaps – counterintuitively – a truer expression of the vineyard than can be seen with a blend of barrels. The very best Pinot Noirs are like delicious earth with a touch of lift – you can virtually taste the sublime dirt from which this one hails.

% Lenswood Pinot Noir, wild yeasts, 15 months in 100% new French oak, only one barrel produced