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This single-vineyard Marsanne comes from a postage stamp-sized parcel (0.2 ha) of vines west of Béziers at Capestang (in the Hérault). Though still generous in texture, the wine’s chiselled freshness comes from the cooler, north-facing aspect, the clay/limestone soils and sensitive canopy management.

The fruit spent a short period on skins before being basket-pressed. Some press component was retained, which firms up the structure and provides a mouth-watering, phenolic character that works so well at the table. The juice fermented spontaneously in old oak, rested for two winters in the same barrels and progressed through full malolactic conversion.

If you have not tasted Souillard’s Marsanne, leave any preconceptions at the door.

“Yellow robe with a wee green tone; the nose has a live air led by ginger, a good feed of roast nuts, apricot, has peps. The palate also has dash, drinks with joli verve, is expressive, droit, good tuning of its live white fruits. The style is airborne, and permits a good aperitif. There’s a neat cluster of tang on the finish. “It’s ripe, balanced, quite complete,” J-B Souillard. 13°.” Jonathan Livingstone-Learmonth, Drink Rhône