Cradle of Hills Row 23 Shiraz 2018 from McLaren Vale is a seriously impressive single‑block Shiraz, drawn from the estate’s best fruit and built for both pleasure and longevity. It’s a complex, small‑batch wine that really wears its rocky, maritime terroir on its sleeve, offering depth without losing freshness.

In the glass, “Row 23” opens with red and black fruits – think blackberry, dark plum and red cherry – threaded with spice, subtle earth and fine, shapely tannins. Seasoned French hogsheads contribute gentle vanillin and sweet‑spice undertones rather than overt oak, supporting rather than smothering the fruit. The wild‑yeast ferment, extended maceration and 18 months in barrel have given the wine intense colour, layered flavour and a silky, basket‑press texture, all kept in line by a bright line of acidity and a balanced 14.5% alcohol.

Vintage conditions and low‑yielding 1654‑clone vines on free‑draining clay‑loam over limestone have delivered small berries packed with flavour, translating to a concentrated yet elegant palate. It’s exactly the sort of McLaren Vale Shiraz that will sing now with decanting, but also has the structure to evolve beautifully over the next decade with added savoury complexity.