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Our first Carbonic Chardonnay since 2017, not for want of love but for the reality of several years of smaller vintages than the one we’ve just seen in 2021. Chardonnay runs the style gamut – from bracing Chablis to well-buttered Meursault and at every station in between, this chameleon grape lends itself endlessly to resculpting and evolution, and all iterations have their charms. That said, it’s hard for us to bypass the allure of phenolic depth contributed by skin contact.

Our Carbonic Chardonnay, while meant to be enjoyed fresh and young, has seen some skins in its short time and is a true standalone. Heady florals give away the youth, underpinned by the punchy forwardness of judiciously applied carbonic treatment. White peach and fineness on the palate, with a direct, acid-driven structure – the ‘reverse teardrop’ effect we call it here, with full fruit purity at the top, concluding in a crisp apple candy full stop.

Our recommendation is two bottles back-to-back: the first to consider where this wine resides in your stylistic vernacular, and the next just for fun.