This rare but fine and perfumed Rioja grape comprises barely 2% of plantings in La Rioja Alta. Valenciso are lucky enough to farm several old-vine Graciano parcels based around the villages Haro and Ollauri. Due to the cooler, Atlantic-influenced climate of northern Rioja, Graciano can have to fight to ripen fully, and hence this wine is only released in exceptional vintages. 2019 was one of those years, when the long growing season afforded slow and even ripening conditions.

This 2019 is just the second release, yet it’s already well up to the quality of this estate’s other releases. Naturally fermented in concrete vats and aged for 24 months in low-impact Russian oak, it’s a cracking showcase for the dark-fruited personality, freshness and structure that define the variety. A top-drawer, serious Rioja and made to age, with sweet tobacco, balsamic and plummy intensity.