Spinifex Wines Esprit Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2022 (6 Bottles) Barossa Valley

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As usual, the wine is sourced from a selection of eight very old vineyards, mainly in Ebenezer, Williamstown and Bethany. Vine age ranges from 75 to over 150 years, and all sites are dry-grown with minimal vineyard inputs—old vineyards grown the old way. This year’s release is Mataro (41%), Cinsault (35%), Grenache (21%) and Shiraz (3%). Each parcel was fermented wild, and macerations varied between eight and 20 days. Maturation was in a combination of well-seasoned 600 and 1200-litre barrels and stainless steel. Only the Grenache component fermented as whole clusters.

“It’s a really good year”, offered Pete Schell of 2021 in a typically economical fashion. Factoring in his penchant for understatement, “a really good year” for Schell means something a little more for the rest of us. Without wanting to cast a shadow on the two previous vintages (when drought and bushfires played significant roles), Pete explains that 2021’s extended growing season provided near-perfect harvest conditions for most varieties, with coolish nights ensuring significant flavour development and clean natural acidity.

Some 20 years after its first release, Spinifex’s Esprit remains a touchstone example of ‘The New Barossa’. Esprit is French for spirit, and of all the Spinifex wines, this is the one that Pete Schell feels best transmutes the essence—or soul—of quintessential Barossa: “well ripened, earthy, generous in flavour, yet savoury, discretely complex, engaging and drinkable”. Built on perfume, finesse and savoury structure, Esprit has earned the moniker of ‘Barossa Burgundy’ in certain circles. Could there be a higher compliment?

After a further year in bottle, this is really starting to blossom. It’s a beautifully constructed medium-bodied Barossa, revealing a seamless composite of raspberries, wild strawberries and cherries, with some white and black pepper and violets thrown into the mix. With its lively acidity and taffeta-like tannins, Spinifex’s calling card has never looked so good.

“Aromas of bright and transparent fruit, showing ripe strawberries and flowers with orange-peel undertones. Violets, too. Medium- to full-bodied with layers of bright fruit and a lively finish. Tangy and bright.” 93 points, Nick Stock, James Suckling com