Mixed berry fruits, perfume and graphite emerge in a brooding mysterious way from this Yarra Yering Underhill Shiraz 2023, Sarah Crowe’s deliciously medium-bodied expression from a single 3-hectare block of unknown clone planted in 1973 on clay-based soils with a slight west-facing slope. Hand harvested with half the block fermenting in a 3500L oak cask using 10% whole bunch while the remainder works in half-tonne open fermenters before 12 months in French oak with minimal new wood. Rated 97 points by Philip Rich at Halliday Wine Companion, this perfumed beauty celebrates its 10th anniversary under Sarah’s winemaking.

Plum fruit flavours add concentration layered with liquorice spice, cured meat and smoky char, while the palate stays medium-weighted and driven by fruit purity with oak a very faint seasoning. Cherry, cassis and freshly ground black pepper intermingle with floral nuances creating a wine that’s more compact and precise than the Dry Red No. 2. Superfine and persistent tannins provide backbone for graceful ageing over the next decade or two while drinking beautifully now.

Grilled lamb rack with rosemary, venison medallions or aged parmesan pair magnificently where the superfine tannins and smoky complexity enhance rich proteins perfectly. Try it with charcuterie boards or braised beef – serve at 16-18°C.