Nick Haselgrove’s Blackbilly Old Vine Grenache is a proper McLaren Vale charmer, built from very old bush vines and handled with a light touch that lets the fruit do the talking. Blackbilly Old Vine Grenache opens with rose petal, musk and fresh white cherry, then drifts into herb, bubblegum and a little woodiness for a perfume that feels lifted, bright and distinctly Grenache.

The palate is fresh and fine-grained, with ripe red fruit wrapped in supple tannins and a long, crisp finish. There’s a lovely mix of generosity and restraint here, so the wine feels both immediately appealing and quietly serious. The old-vine fruit gives it extra depth, while the lively acidity keeps everything moving beautifully.

Serve it with san choy bow, roast duck, chargrilled lamb, soft washed-rind cheese or Mediterranean vegetable dishes, where its fragrance and savoury detail can really sing. This is a smart, stylish red with plenty of character, and it offers a very persuasive argument for opening something a little different.