By Farr Shiraz 2023 from the Farr family in the Moorabool Valley near Geelong is a thrilling cool‑climate expression – think northern Rhône meets Victoria in a deeply savoury, perfumed and energetic style that’s as serious as it is downright drinkable. This 2023 By Farr Shiraz is drawn from the original 1994 plantings on volcanic soils over limestone, giving real mineral drive and finesse.

Aromatically it’s all black cherry, dark plum, black olive tapenade and lavender, laced with white pepper, clove, graphite and a flicker of floral perfume from the co‑fermented viognier. The palate is slippery and savoury with saline notes, fine earthy tannins and vibrant acidity carrying layers of ripe black fruit, spice and subtle barrel spice through a beautifully long, complex finish. It behaves far more like a top northern Rhône syrah than a typical Aussie bruiser.

Food‑wise, this cool‑climate shiraz is a dream with charcuterie, roast duck, grilled lamb backstrap or a mushroom and olive ragù over fresh pasta, where its peppery, mineral edge really cuts through richness. It will also sing with hard cheeses and herb‑rubbed pork, and has the structure to age gracefully for a decade or more if you’ve got cellar space.