Cullen Diana Madeline 2022 by Cullen Wines from Margaret River is a breathtaking biodynamic Cabernet blend, shimmering deep crimson in the glass and showing why this cuvée is a modern Australian benchmark. The nose is pure theatre – cassis, mulberry and wild blackberry layered with violet, bay leaf, tobacco, cocoa and a whisper of graphite.

On the palate, 2022 Cullen Diana Madeline is all line and length – concentrated yet wonderfully poised, with blackcurrant, blood plum and subtle earth wrapped in superfine, chalk–dust tannins. Oak is beautifully integrated, giving cedar and spice without ever shouting. There is a cool, mineral acidity that carries flavour effortlessly and promises serious cellaring potential.

This is built for refined food – think dry–aged Scotch fillet, rosemary–rubbed lamb rack or slow–braised beef cheek with porcini to echo the wine’s savoury side. Hard cheeses, especially aged cheddar or Comté, are superb matches, as are truffled mushroom dishes where the wine’s perfume really sings.