Dominique Portet Single Vineyard Shiraz 2023, made by Ben Portet in the Yarra Valley (Victoria), is a consummate expression of this cool-climate Shiraz. Deep in colour, it offers aromas of dark plums, blackberry and liquorice, underpinned by lifted spice and white pepper from 20% whole-bunch fermentation. Medium-bodied with silky fine tannins and balanced, natural acidity, the palate is brooding yet poised, finishing with savoury depth and subtle minerality. Though not yet adorned with major awards for the 2023 release, its predecessor (2022) scored 95 points in Halliday Wine Companion, suggesting this wine has excellent pedigree.