Domaine Vocoret Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre 2023 is a seriously classy, flinty Chablis that marries intensity with finesse – a proper white Burgundy for people who like their Chardonnay racy, mineral and age‑worthy rather than fat and oaky. From one of Chablis’ finest premier cru sites, it shows all the hallmarks of top Montée de Tonnerre in a finely etched 2023 frame.

In the glass, expect a sleek, tightly coiled style with citrus – think lemon and lime – green apple and white stone‑fruit over a core of tidal‑pool salinity and chalky limestone minerality. The palate is bone‑dry, intense and finely textured, with that classic Chablis combination of crushed oyster shell, wet stone and electric acidity running through the fruit, finishing youthfully austere now but with clear potential to flesh out beautifully with a few years in bottle.

Food‑wise, this Montée de Tonnerre is made for oysters, natural or with a squeeze of lemon, as well as simply grilled white fish, scallops or bug tails where the saline, mineral edge and racy acidity absolutely sing. It will also be superb with goat’s cheese, sashimi or a delicate chicken dish in a light cream or beurre blanc sauce, especially as it gains a little texture and complexity with short‑term cellaring.