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Perched between Morgon and Fleurie at around 400 metres above sea level, the vineyards of Chiroubles are the highest in Beaujolais. The vines sit on the upper slopes and, in general, produce a Beaujolais that is all “lacy texture and sleek charm”, to quote Gerald Asher. Bouland’s Chiroubles has a bit more stuffing than that, especially in a powerful year like ’23.

It comes from a 0.65-hectare parcel of 35- to 45-year-old vines on the steep, ridged incline of Chatenay, which has Cru’s typical granite and yellow sandstone soils. Protected by a nearby forest, it’s a warm, north-facing site. The new vintage is supple and open with fleshy texture, plenty of sweet cherry flavour, supporting acidity and a lovely, spice-laden close.

Absolutely lip-smacking, it would be terrific with charcuterie but will, in fact, go with a wide range of food. Delicious drinking now!