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L’Orange ferments naturally in tank with whole bunches and is pressed after nine days of skin contact. It returns to tank and concrete to complete fermentation and aging.

While these include Terret Gris, Carignan Blanc, Macabeu and Grenache Gris, there are also rare indigenous varieties planted here that have not yet been identified. Then, there’s some Marsanne and Muscat Blanc from another site that brings top notes to the wine.

Organic. L’Orange is a whole-bunch, skin-contact blend from two sources. Most of the fruit comes from a 70- to 90-year-old field blend of old-vine blanc and gris varieties, historically co-planted on the limestone soils of the Roc Suzadou vineyard.

Whatever the exact make-up of the wine, it makes for marvellous drinking. Unlike many in the category, this is impeccably pure and precise, as well as seductive. It offers mouthfuls of fuzzy orchard fruit and tangy, ripe quince, balanced by a crisp acidity and a gently powdery, fragrant finish.

In a sense the name is a distraction; this is a wonderful, Mediterranean-style white that works brilliantly with many different foods.