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The 2014 Le Blanc Bonhomme is a blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc drawn from a 2-hectare, biodynamic vineyard close to the banks of the Gironde River. Guillaume Hubert’s grounded, vineyard-focused approach results in a vibrant, unworked and racy white whose crunchy freshness and juicy texture reflects its limestone soils more transparently than anything we have come to expect of white Bordeaux.

The grapes are handpicked, manually sorted and undergo a 24-hour carbonic period before being pressed into concrete vats. Here it completes its fermentation, carried out by indigenous yeasts only. In other words, it’s a mould-breaking white Bordeaux, and just to be sure no one misses the point, the family bottle it in a Burgundy-shaped vessel. Vibrating with 2014’s stony freshness, it’s a crunchy, racy white with mouth-watering lemon pith, fresh herbs and some white floral notes, closing with some gentle phenolic bite. A lovely release of this vibrant, well-priced white.