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We probably don’t need to keep say this, but Laherte’s entry Champagne continues its skywards trajectory. Dubbed “just impeccable, especially within its peer group,” by Galloni, Ultradition is made from fruit that is both biodynamic and organically reared. There are now two reserve vintages blended in, which make up 40% of the blend, with 60% comprising barrel-aged material. The varietal blend remains 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, which was drawn from seven different parcels across the Côteaux Sud d’Épernay and Vallée de la Marne (namely Chavot, Mancy, Morangis, Le Breuil, Boursault, Moussy and Vaudancourt). The average age of the vines is 30 years.

Aurélien Laherte naturally ferments the juice in a mixture of vessels–including two 50-hL Rousseau tronconique casks, old barrels, foudre and concrete. Regardless of vessel, the wines are always on lees and malolactic fermentation is partially completed (around 60-70% on average).

This bottling was disgorged with a dosage of 4.5 g/l. It is, again, a top value grower wine–bright, pure and juicy with loads of delicious redcurrant, apple-skin Meunier fruit, and a punchy, mineral close. The quality delivered for this price is outstanding.

“The NV Extra Brut Ultradition, the entry-level wine in this range, is wonderfully deep and fleshy, with plenty of Meunier character driving the blend. Dried pear, chamomile and spice are some of the notes that open in the glass. Generous and inviting, the Ultradition has plenty to offer. This release is based on 2017, with reserve wines from 2016 and 2015. Drink it over the next few years.” 91 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous